CARNIVAL by JAMIE ROBSON (2007)

A masked man in a pirate cap accompanied by a woman in a fully Georgian ball gown walking down Oxford Street would undoubtedly either cause all shoppers to scamper on to the other side of the road as quickly as possible or at least stop and look for the BBC cameras filming a new episode of Doctor Who. For ten days in Venice however, it is the pashminas and Ugg boots that seem out of place.

One would have thought that, having lived in the city for a fortnight before its showcase event, there would be a gradual introduction to the bizarreness of Carnival. This was not to be the case. Whether the masses had been mysteriously shipped in by moonlight or had been living underground for weeks (unlikely in Venice!) come the first morning everything was buzzing. Having previously been able to simply 'meet up in Piazza San Marco' it became virtually impossible to even approach the area due to the massive stage that had built for Carnival and the thousands of extra tourists who flocked to see the show and be part of it. Only two things were seen and heard more than the people; one, the delicious Fritelle which come in three sensational flavours, but go for Veneziana, original and best, second, French accents, which seemed to echo round every corner. I don't know what it is about the Carnival and the French, maybe they come for the fritelle too!

Venice by night was also engorged; stages went up all over, most notably in Campo Santa Margherita which probably drove the locals mad by playing a constant stream of music. They did stop at around eleven, which must have come as a relief. This was the only time in the year that Piccolo Mondo could not sell itself as first the Stazione Marittimi and then a huge club in the Italian Pavilion in the Giardini opened to cater for the after hours crowd and Piccolo's in its entirety could have neatly fitted behind the bar in the Giardini venue, and although Yours Truly could never pull off a 'dance move', others certainly appreciated the space to try!

The key question with regards to the Carnival is whether one is sad to reach the end of it or whether the return of the quiet life comes as a relief. Certainly the local Venetians must be glad to be able to finally hear themselves speak above the babble of the Carnival crowd but personally I felt that it went by with such pace that I wouldn't mind starting again. Maybe next year, roll on John Hall 2008!